Motor & Drivetrain

• What oil filters can I use in place of the OEM, and are there any related tips?
• Should I use synthetic oil and which is the best?
• The shifter is not working properly, how can I fix this?
• Where can I buy shifter linkage replacement parts?
• What's the procedure for replacing the clutch?
• Do I use the same fluid for the clutch that I use for the brakes?
• My clutch doesn't work in hot stop/go traffic..what should I do?
• The engine labors when starting or won't start, what can I do?
• I'm seeing oil leak from the left-side front cover screws..WTF?

What oil filters can I use in place of the OEM, and are there any related tips?

See the Garage sections at Mocc's Place

The oil window has a line that indicates full and low, if you can't see the oil level or it is not obvious then lean the bike in one direction or another until you see the oil level. You may be over or under on the oil if it is not obvious in the window. To easily check the oil level  while astride the bike in a centered position, use a little telescoping mirror (available from most hardware or auto stores).

Your Suzuki dealer carries a filter wrench (should be $5.00 - $10.00), PN 09915-40610

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Should I use synthetic oil and which is the best?

For best performance and reduced wear, many Forum members have found that a good synthetic works best in the LC. Opinions will vary, but most agree that Amsoil 10W-40 Motorcycle oil is preferred. For the final gear oil, use Amsoil 75W-90 or 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil. If  you can't find a dealer in your area, order direct online or post a message on the Forum....they'll help you find some.

Another less expensive and easier to find popular primary drive synthetic oil is Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic in the blue jug. It can usually be found at Walmart or Advance Auto.

Note: Synthetic oil does not thin out in the heat like petroleum oils, so there is no need to increase weight because it's hot out. The 10W-40 will flow thru the filter and the cooler faster, move back to the sump faster, and probably hold more oil pressure because that's what the pump is designed to move.

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The shifter is not working properly, how can I fix this?

See the Garage sections at Mocc's Place

Courtesy of Forum member "Lou (VS1600)"
[In response to problems downshifting into 1st gear]-- The problem is caused by pins on the shifter spur gear backing out. I repaired 2 intruders with this problem. Go to the online repair manual , then to page 3E-0. You will see an exploded view of the shifting system. in the bottom left corner you will see a gear that has 6 pins on it. that is the problem! The pins back out and cause the shifting mechanism to lock up. The reason it only happens in one gear is that only one pin is backed out. I used green locktite to secure the pin when I reinstalled it. I first measured the pin height, and then removed the pins and then used the green locktite in the holes and reset the pins to the proper height. Once it was dry I reinstalled the shifting assembly.

Update: 07.02.12
Suzuki evidently now makes a cast Star Gear, so that the pins can't back out.
Part # 25381-10F10 Gear Shift Plate which replaces the old part #25380-10F00 Plate, Gear Shift.
See this forum thread.

Here is the whole kit you may need to fix the shifting issues

11485-10F10 GASKET, GEAR SHIFT COVER
25350-24B00 Stopper Comp, G
25355-13E10 Spring, Shift C
09280-35006 O-Ring, ID:35.5
25381-10F10 Plate, Gear Shift Cam

If the shifter is pop'n out of 4th gear under load, download this excellent detailed PDF put together by Fritz.

Here is a very well put together explanation of other things that can cause shifting problems. On Wes Edens old site http://www.crowitis.com/wes/4th_gear1.html

Another take on  pop'n out of 4th gear and hard shifting by forum member "rkjjeep"  Read below and see this forum thread for the full picture.

Been riding this one a while and just got back from a long trip. The bike has never shifted as good as I'd like and on this trip it was hard to get into first several times and it jumped out of first and fourth several times. I refused to believe that is "normal".
Read the 4th gear fix on Moccs site and ordered those parts. The "comp arm" was free but I filed both sides of it flat and probably removed a little material. I don't think that was my problem. I inspected all the interfaces of all the parts and noticed SIGNIFICANT burrs at the interface of number 18 and 15 on the microfiche. #18 grabs the pins on 15 and rotates the star to make the shift. The burrs were on the back part of the business part of 18. I filed off the burrs and put everything back together. I did use the new cast style 15 (star). First gear now requires MUCH less effort and the shift is smoother and less violent. ALL shifts are much improved. If you go into this area of your bike inspect all the mating parts and correct what doesn't look right.

Also read this Forum Post from Ron Judge and this Forum Post by MaxPower (khyslop)

The Bottom Line on shifting woes, there are more than one thing that can cause them. It's good to know what you might run into.
 

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Where can I buy shifter linkage replacement parts?

Here is link to the pertinent microfiche section for reference.

Courtesy of Forum member "JimJC"
I'm using (a balljoint) from McMaster now and it's much stouter than the OEM. I have about 40K miles on it. I think it's the 16mm reverse thread. You'll have to go to their website and drill down to (find) the one you want.

Courtesy of Forum member "ltron65"
The part number that works with our bikes is...6275K53 through McMaster-Carr. They are good people, they took the first ball joint that I bought (the one I screwed up and ordered without making sure) and exchanged it without and questions.

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What's the procedure for replacing the clutch?

Low quality video

High quality video

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Do I use the same fluid for the clutch that I use for the brakes?

Same fluid, such as Valvoline synthetic DOT4 (not 5, DOT5 has silicone in it which will destroy your seals).

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My clutch doesn't work in hot stop/go traffic..what should I do?

Has this happened to you?

“My clutch lever kept getting weaker and weaker until there was almost nothing there. I was riding in about 10 miles of HEAVY clutch use. Anyone had this happen before? Think the fluid needs changing? Once the bike cooled down and we were ready to leave (about 4 hours later) it was fine, and has been fine since.”

What happens is that condensation builds up over time with the Non-Synthetic Fluid. This condensation settles into the Slave cylinder which is attached to the engine. In heavy traffic the condensation vaporizes from the heat and leaves a void in the hydraulic system causing the hydraulic system to fail! So when you squeeze the lever nothing happens (its basically limp); it does not apply pressure to the slave cylinder. So if you were to shut off the engine and put it in gear and restart, it would move.
You need to change to synthetic fluid. It happens to everyone that has to ride in bumper to bumper traffic with high temps. You need DOT 4 synthetic fluid in the LC. Get a set of Speed Bleeders (www.speedbleeder.com) (Front and rear brakes SB7100. Clutch SB8125) and change everything out to DOT 4 synthetic. You can also get the Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo - well worth the $6.00. Makes changing everything over simple, mess free and one guy can do it easily.

If you have not opened the system you can also drain the fluid reservoir by soaking up the fluid with a clean shop towel (watch for lint!), or use a small siphon. Then fill with synthetic (like Valvoline synthetic DOT4.....not 5, as DOT5 has silicone in it which will destroy your seals). Open the bleeder and gravity takes over and what's in the line should drain on it's own. Just keep the reservoir full until clean fluid flows from the bleeder then close the bleeder and fill the reservoir...done! Don't touch the lever during this procedure.

Note: If the bike is on the side stand, the cylinder down by the clutch is not level and air may get trapped in it. Lay the bike way over to the right or get it level at the least to avoid this problem.

Below is the recommended DOT 4 fluid to buy.

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The engine labors when starting or won't start, what can I do?

As long as your battery and starter are known to be in good shape, this is usually due to the Decomp system being out of adjustment.
Check out the "Decomp for Dummies" article in the Garage section at Mocc's Place

Courtesy of Forum member "OneFromOz"
Also, when checking the rear decomp, ensure the cable is actually seated. I adjusted a decomp last week and the rear cable was out of the place it fits into. No way the decomp was working on the rear cylinder.

Below is some additional info on doing the Decomp adjustment:
Courtesy of Forum member "zmoccasin"
I hope you haven't hauled the bike in yet, because if you do, your "Factory Trained Technician" will adjust your decomp cams by the book, which shows specs for a new engine, and when you get the bike back, you'll be right back where you started.

It is not uncommon for the front cam to be off its stop plate, (especially if someone has tried to adjust them before) and it isn't necessarily a problem, but what you'll likely find, if you have a way of measuring it, is that the REAR cam is not off its plate by the same distance. Thus, regardless of the front cam setting, you still have a trailing rear cam. (and I would wager a small be that your rear cam is SITTING on ITS stop plate).

Use the stop plate for SYNCING the cams, NOT for final setting. Here's what you need to do:

1.) Make a mental note of, or if possible, measure the gap between your front cam and its stop plate. Doesn't have to be critical, just give yourself an idea of the gap so you can return it to that point later.

2.) Using the turnbuckle adjustment on the FRONT cable (to the solenoid), lower the front cam until it just touches the stop plate. (Now you have a fixed reference point for syncing.)

3.) Now, using a mirror held by an assistant, start adjusting the rear cable until you see the rear cam start to lift off its stop plate. Stop adjusting and lock it down when the rear cam just begins to lift off the plate.

4.) With the rear cable adjuster locked down, use your fingers to lift the front cam off its plate several times while watching the rear cam in the mirror, to make sure that they both move off their plates at exactly the same time. If the rear one is slightly behind, do the rear cable adjustment over, until they both move at the same time.

5.) With both cams perfectly synced NOW go back to the front cable and lift the front cam to where it was before you started.

6.) Final adjustment: With the spark plug wires off the plugs so the bike won't fire off. Put the transmission in neutral so you can crank it. (Tie the clutch in or have an assistant hold it in if necessary to crank the bike). Now hit the starter button....

7.) LISTEN! Listen to the sound your engine makes as it makes the first few spins.
a.) If it spins like a top with no resistance (as if there were no spark plugs in the holes), your front cable adjustment is too tight, and you could cause premature wear of the cam lobes if they are way too tight.
b.) If it labors as it tries to turn over, your front cable is too loose, and should be tightened by one or two turns until you get the desired spin sound.

Desired Spin Sound: What you want is a non-labored spin with just enough of an indication of compression that you can tell when the pistons top out. If the cable is too tight, you will sound like nothing but a starter motor, and if its too loose, your starter will struggle to top out the pistons. Find the sweet spot in the middle and you'll be all done!

NOTE 1: The decomps only work for a few revolutions, then release, so don't hold the starter button down. Just press it for two or three revs and release.

NOTE 2: Your bike does not have to be at top dead center to adjust the decomps in this manner.

NOTE 3: Just to correct an earlier misconception, "cracking the throttle" does not change the function of the decomps, nor does any aspect of the intake system have any effect on the compression ratio inside the engine. To release compression, you have to lift a valve. That's what the decomps do.

Hope this helps!
Mocc
 

Here's some additional info in case the standard decomp adjustment doesn't help:
Courtesy of Forum member "RollinThundr"
If your LC is having problems starting like the Decomp is not adjusted properly or the battery is low and you’ve checked the battery and its connections you’ve done Mocc’s Decomp Adjustment Procedures and its still doesn’t feels like the Decomp is functioning properly you may want to look at the Solenoid for the Decomp which is located right above the Decomp mechanism on the front jug. When you hit the start button the solenoid should actuate pulling up on the Decomp cable which activates the Decomp Mechanism. If yours just starts clicking or does not pull all the way up you may want to look close at the function of the solenoid. Mine was doing this and after doing the battery stuff the Decomp Adjustment stuff and even replacing the Starter as per the Shop manual the trouble persisted. So I closely watched the actions of the Solenoid and noticed it was not pulling all the way up when actuated and would just start pulsing up and down. I then tried actuating it by hand and the bike started right up. When pulling up on the plunger I noticed it felt very rough going up. So I removed the Solenoid and took it apart. The plunger and the cylinder were both badly corroded. I took some emery paper and sanded both the plunger and the cylinder to remove the corrosion and then lightly oiled both. Put it all back together and it starts like a new bike.
 

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I'm seeing oil leak from the left-side front cover screws..WTF?

Courtesy of Forum member "Ace818"
The oil is directly on the other side of that cover. If you were to unbolt that cover and remove it without draining the oil,  all the oil in your motor would come out there. Once that cover is off you can almost see the whole bottom end of the motor. I know this because I had all this off a month ago. If it is leaking I would probably just replace the gasket. 

Here are the steps out of the service manual to do that;

-Drain engine oil

-Remove secondary gear case (to the right of the one that's leaking) * Disconnect your electrical connections that go in to the generator cover via the rubber grommet*

-Remove the front foot rest (two bolts under floor board)

-Remove generator cover (leaking one) * It will be a little tough removing this because the stator is a big magnetic coil and it wants to pull itself back in. Don't be afraid to give it a little tug.

-Remove the two dowel pins (they should be in the block but they might have come off with the cover- they would be in two of the bolt holes) and the old gasket (make sure you get all of the old gasket off both the block and the cover to ensure the new one will seal properly)

*The next thing is important but might be way better described if you could look at the picture.  These are a couple of things you should check before you start to re-install everything:
 1. Make sure the starter idle gear and the shaft that runs threw it is still in place. This is the gear in the top left corner. Just push it towards the inside of the motor to make sure its in place. 
 2. Look at the gear underneath the top one, there should be a smaller gear mounted on the front of it. On the front of the smaller gear there should be a washer on the front of this gear. Make sure it is there. If not check the cover, it could be stuck to it. It must sit on the shaft in the front of that smaller gear.
 3. In the generator cover there is a bushing in the hole that lines up for the shaft of that smaller gear talked about in step 2. Make sure that it is in there. You should put a touch of white grease inside that bushing before you re-install cover to prevent binding. I was told that the white grease will dissolve in the oil and because it is such a small amount that I should not have to change the oil after 1000km's.

NOW THAT EVERYTHING IS IN PLACE AND CLEAN:

-Re-insert the two dowel pins in to the block

-Set new gasket in place (I was told by the dealer to install the gasket dry and without any silicone and I was very leery about that but it has not leaked yet)

-Set the generator cover back on (remember that the cover is going to want to pull itself on to the block because of the stator being a magnet so try and line it up as close as you can so you don't accidentally damage the new gasket)

- Bolt cover back on (I hand tightened all the bolts first, then snugged them up in an offset pattern - top left,bottom right,top right,bottom left.........- then I gave them a final tighten in the same pattern as snugging them up.  I could not find a torque spec anywhere in the manual for those bolts so just tightened them until it felt like enough)

-Re-attach electrical connections

-Re-install footrest

-Re-install secondary gear case

- *FILL ENGINE WITH OIL*

All Done

P.S.  You will probably notice oil on the wires coming out of that rubber grommet going in to the secondary gear cover, don't worry that's normal.

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