Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Forum F.A.Q.
FAQ Created & Maintained
by:
Forum member since 12/01
Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Forum F.A.Q.
FAQ Created & Maintained
by:
Forum member since 12/01
How do I adjust the pre-load on the rear shock?
See the Garage section at Mocc's Place
Contact Bushwacker (RSiade) on the Forum, he makes them. Be sure to
read this thread
as it has info about from Randy about measurements and recommendations. If you
need some
guidance on installing the links, reference
this Forum thread.
Lowering Links and suspension parts:
Scootworks manufactures
an adjustable lowering kit
(the !Slammer)
for the LC that takes it down up to 3". They also stock progressive springs,
lowering kits,
and shocks for the LC (along with a ton of other stuff).
Corbin (pricey, very firm until broken in, similar seat position to stock, lower, wider)
Mustang (driver seat pushes you forward, good for those with short legs)
Russell Day Long (comfy, can be pricey like Corbin)
Saddlemen Travelcade (comfy, can be pricey like Corbin)
ScootWorks page
MetricThunder page
Check with the Forum vendors for best pricing!
Review this document first...not specific to our bike but good general info!
Courtesy of Forum member "RollingThunder"
I'm watching some of these threads on wobbling in the
front ends of their LC's. I also see alot of people saying to replace the
Steering Head Bearings (SHB) to resolve this problem. I honestly don't believe
this is the cause of the problem. I had bad SHB's on my LC at approx 30,000
miles. The trouble I had with my bike was there was a NOTCH in the steering off
of center, in other words if you moved your handlebars back and forth on dead
center it had a notch where it wanted to lock in. Which was a real pain in the
ass while riding slow! I NEVER had any wobbling in the front end at any speed!
And I'll bet no one who has replaced the SHB's were worse than mine were. Mine
were bone dry, the plastic cage was worn thru and about 4 of the rollers were
all touching with no separation from the cage along with being rusty and
pitted!!! I do believe the OEM's are trash but should still last 20k, 30k or
more miles.
Here's what I'd check on wayyyyy before I replaced the bearings!
1. Air Pressure of front/rear tires
2. Cupping or uneven wear of front tire
3. Missing Balance weights on the front tire
4. Balance of front tire (Quick check: jack front wheel off of ground, remove
brake pads, slowly spin the front tire, when it stops mark the tire at its
lowest point. Spin the tire several times if it keeps stopping at the same point
You should get them balanced)
5. Check the front wheel bearings for tightness when turning them or excessive
play or looseness in them. (when mine were bad they actually squealed a little)
6. Check Torque on the 2 bolts on the lower Triple Tree holding tension on the
forks.
7. Check the Torque on all 3 of the nut/caps on the upper triple tree.
Also if you had the Front wheel off just before the wobbling started, did you
install the axle properly. Once the wheel is back on and the axle is screwed
back in you should put the wheel back on the ground and bounce the front end a
couple of times along with turning the forks back and forth a few times before
you tighten the bolt that locks the axle into place. This will allow the front
forks to be properly set without tension or twist in them.
If the wobble still persist I'd remove the upper triple tree and adjust the SHB
adjuster nut!
-----
Courtesy of Forum member "robc90"
Yes the alen head screws at the clamp (Top) around the fork leg. Then take
the big nut in the middle off.. Then raise the triple clamp (Slide it up the
fork legs aprox 1" so you can get to the nut under the triple clamp (there is a
big nut on top in the middle and one below)
The one below is the tension nut for the bearings.. No raising the bike.
When you slide the triple tree clamp up - but not off the fork legs you will
see the main bearing nut below or under the clamp. The handle bars will raise up
with the triple tree (Triple tree because its clamped in 3 places)
-----
Replacing the steering head bearings
Replacing the fork springs and the steering head bearings
(as of July 12th 2010)
Some good
Forum discussion here on SHB changing, tips & tricks..
And in case you were wondering about any differences between the C90 and the LC
neck bearings:
Courtesy of Forum member "James2003X"
The C-90 bearings and the LC bearings are the exact same.. I looked them up
on the microfiche for 05 bully and the 98-04 LC's. They have the same dimensions
and the exact same Suzuki part numbers.
-----
Courtesy of Forum member "BDRAG"
I have the Progressive
springs in mine. I put their so called Heavy Duty in because they recommend 250
lbs and up use them instead of their standard replacements. Be ready to make
your own spacers. I think they use the same springs in different bikes and just
change the length of the spacer depending on the application. I used aluminum
bar on my spacers. Others have used PVC. If you think the front end is just
kinda mushy, try adding a spacer in on top of the stock spring. I think a few
forum members have gone that route. It stiffened the DEW DEW out of my front
end. I also put 15 wt oil in over the stock 10 wt..
Check with the Forum vendors for best pricing
Courtesy of Forum member "jimjc"
Regarding spacers -- Go to the hardware store and buy two 3/4" PVC
pipe X 1/2"FPT adaptors. They are about 1 1/2" long. Place the
1/2"FPT end on top of the spring and compress/turn the threaded spring
retainer until it catches and tighten to 25 ft lbs. I have found this combination
to be perfect. I tried 3" with the stock spring and though the ride was
very nice there wasn't enough travel left for the fork and could cause the tire
to leave the road if a sudden drop off is encountered. Plus it raised the front
a bit too much for my taste. The Progressive springs are about 6" shorter
than the stock spring and requires a 6" spacer ( two 3/4 PVC pipe caps on a
section of 5 5/8" pipe works nicely) This maintains the ride height but the
spring rate is totally changed for the better due to the shorter spring.
Actually, if you were good with a torch you could convert the stock springs the
same way.
To get all the old fluid out of the lower fork without
removing the whole front end, use a syringe
kit
Replacing
the fork springs and the steering head bearings
New! (as of July 12th 2010)
Some good
Forum discussion here on SHB changing, tips & tricks..