These helpful instructions are created by Edward (Canshad)
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION OF BOTH WHEELS ON SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 LC
The following is the experience I gained in removing my wheels to have new tires fitted on Jan/Feb 2004, I must point out, that I will not be resposible for any accidents to any person/persons, or damage to equipment or property by using my suggestions. Note : The Intruder 1500 LC is a very heavy motorcycle, & all precautions must be taken to do this job safely, by using proper load tested restrainers, proper lifting equipment & the proper tools. A lot of my success was gained by Wes's guide at :-   http://www.intruder1500.com/reartire.shtml
I used my motorcycle bike lift to take the total weight of the bike to a height approx. 22" from the tip of the fender to the floor, this height may need to be increased later depending on the size of the tires on the wheels to be installed. I then removed the windshield in order to provide access to the triple tree area for installation of the two front safety straps to my storage shed roof trusses, which have been reinforced to take the weight, just in case things go wrong.
I had  a total of (7) adjustable load tested nylon straps securing the bike while lifting it to this height, (4) straps were used to hold bike from the roof truss of my storage shed, (2) were secured near the triple tree area to take the weight of the front end, just in case something terrible should occur, these straps will have to be tightened as bike is jacked up.
The other (2) straps secured on the frame tube section below the driver seat (Driver Seat has to be removed for this) these straps will also have to be tightened as the bike is being jacked up.
I used (2) more straps to secure the handlebars from swinging during the lifting, caution: as these are attached to to base of the bike lift, they have to be constantly slackened off until the working height is achieved, otherwise damage to the handlebars can occur.  Another strap was put across the frame & secured also to the bike lift caution : this also requires slackening during lifting until desired working height is achieved, this strap will reduce the probability of the bike sliding left or right or tipping during work on the bike.
There are tools supplied in the tool kit for removing the rear & front wheel, but these tools are not much good for torque values expressed in the owners manual when doing final assembly of wheels. I therefore advise that you have a Torque Wrench 1/2" Drive & a 27 mm Socket Wrench, which will be needed especially on the rear wheel, also you should invest in a Metric Allen Socket Set, also 1/2" drive, I also found that a Metric Set of Allen 'T' Handles also came in very handy.
The OEM manual states that the rear fender & all kinds of other stuff should be removed before trying to remove the rear wheel, but I got some information from Wes on the forum, who guided me on an easier path where a lot of this work was not necessary if the bike was up high enough, my thanks to Wes for this excellent information.
In order to keep the proper balance on the bike lift, I would suggest that the front wheel be removed first, this is comparatively easier than the rear wheel which will be explained later.
Front wheel removal : Remove the end caps, remove the front axle "Pinch Bolt" front left fork ( item (2) in manual ) remove caliper bolts both (2) both sides (2003 model year) secure calipers, secure wheel from dropping while removing axle from left side. Remove front axle, caution : there are (2) spacers on this axle, left & right, make sure you mark them, as they are both different in shape & in length, & must be re-assembled in same order to provide proper cetrallity of the front wheel with the forks & the brake calipers.both spacers have large flanges which go towards the bearing, the right spacer has (2) flanges, the largest dia. goes towards the bearing. ( very important)
Now comes the tough part, I had the original stock pipes, so if you have different pipes, or your bike is a different year, (2003) your choices may be different from mine.  Remove OEM right side saddlebag, slack off muffler coupling brackets # 8 & # 8a which connect muffler crossover tank to top muffler, this is where the power of the allen socket wrench set will come in handy, they're pretty tight with the heat,remove top exhaust pipe bracket bolt (item 19 in manual) the top exhaust pipe should now swing down clear of the rear axle. You may be forced to provide more room for the exit and/or re-installation of the rear wheel by removing the bolt which secures the underside mufflet tank on the lower left side of the frame, (item # 13 in manual) then the (2) bolts, ( items # 14 in manual) which will allow the rear muffler body ( lower exhaust pipe ) to be pulled over to the right to provide access for easier rear wheel entry or removal.

Remove rear brake caliper by removing the caliper mounting bolt & nut (item 12 in manual) secure caliper. Remove axle end caps, & now, this is where the 27 mm 1/2" socket & breaker drive bar comes in handy,remove axle nut on right side, than work the axle out of the wheel from the left side of the bike with a wrench on the left side, make sure the weight of the wheel is supported, as this will make for easy removal, take care for the axle spacer which is located on the right side of the axle, make sure you mark it, as it has to go back in the same orientation. Now the axle is removed, pull the wheel gently towards the right side of the bike to disengage spline drive unit, now the wheel is off.
When re-assembling both wheels, may I suggest that the rear wheel be assembled first, this will keep the weight of the bike better balanced on the bike lift. If you have difficulty engaging rear wheel to drive spline, try pulling axle back from right side locationbut still have axle thru' wheel, then try again to engage the drive unit, when successful, then push axle all the way towards the right side, with spacer & brake caliper mounting bracket assembled on axle, then assemble nut & tighten. The torque values are important for safety & also prevent damage to components, the torque values are :- front axle nut : 47 lb-ft   front axle pinch bolt : 16.5 lb-ft ( this should be tightened after front axle nut has been torqued )  rear wheel axle nut : 79 lb-ft    rear brake caliper mounting bracket bolt/nut. : 36 lb-ft
GOOD LUCK