Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Forum F.A.Q.
FAQ Created & Maintained
by:
Forum member since 12/01
Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Forum F.A.Q.
FAQ Created & Maintained
by:
Forum member since 12/01
Remove or disable the Pair Valve, see this page
Check for air leaks (loose airbox, loose exhaust nuts, cracked hoses, etc)
Check that your carbs aren't running too lean, see this page
A bunch...below are links to some of the more popular manufacturers:
Bub
Choices for 2 into 1 are:
HardKrome Sideburner, which are probably the loudest
Vance & Hines Propipe which are not as loud but still have plenty of bark
Cobra Powerpro, which are probably similar to the V&H
RoadHouse Classic, which are not the loudest but still have good deep rumble and
a bit of bark when you open up the throttle
Note: this ONLY applies to the LC, not the C90!, see below - Mamba, with thanks to Dave Ellingson
Courtesy of Forum member "Canuck"
DEBAFFLING THE BAFFLING PROBLEM OF DE-BAFFLIZATION!!"
Easiest way to remove the first plate & baffle of each pipe is with a
2&1/4" hole saw. Simply drill out the plate and pull out the baffle. If
you do not have access to the hole saw, sharpen the tip of a flathead
screwdriver. With a hammer drive holes around the outer edges of the plate. Once
you've cut all the way around the plate, it will come out & you'll be able
to pull out the baffle.
Removal of the second plate: Some have had success in using the hole saw mounted
on an extension. If you're able to do so, great. However, you will need to crimp
the plate a great deal in order to get it out the end of the pipe. That's
difficult b/c the second & third plates are larger than the end of the pipe.
Most folks use a steel rod with one end ground down to a flat point. Go to a
hardware store and get a 3/8" steel rod about 36" long. Have them
grind down one end to the shape of a flathead screwdriver. You'll have to cut
around the outer edges of the plate by driving holes with the rod. If you first
cut a line of holes from top to bottom down the middle of the plate the process
will be easier. This will not only help pull the outer ring around the plate
from the inner walls of the plate, but will also help crimp up the plate making
removal from the end of the pipe easier. As the ring begins to separate from the
walls of the pipe, you'll notice the four grommets that hold the ring to the
walls. Chisel through the grommets once you've chiseled as much as you can
around the outer edges of the plate and the plate will fall away. Pull the plate
(or what's left of it) toward the end of the pipe with a coat hanger. Crimp,
bend, or cut the plate until you can remove it from the pipe. This is the most
time-consuming and aggravating part of the process...but you'll get through it!
For the third plate, repeat the process.
Once you're done, the part cut out at the end of the pipes will look pretty
jagged and banged up. Use a dremmel to smooth the edges out. I'd suggest doing
the smoothing before you work on the 2nd & 3rd plates so you'll have more
room to get those plates out. After the smoothing is done, you should paint the
area with some high heat intensity paint (can be picked up at any auto parts
store). Cover the bike and pipes, taping the outer sides of the pipe so paint
doesn't go everywhere! Let dry and repeat. This will keep the dremmeled areas
from rusting. If any paint does get on the outer ends on the pipe, once it's
dried, gently rub it away with some steel wool. Comes off easily and if done
correctly, won't hurt the chrome.
Other notes: You do not need to remove the pipes from the bike to do this.
However, if you have a workbench on which you can stabilize the pipes, removal
does make the process a little more comfortable. Some have put their bikes up on
lifts in order to give themselves more room. Trying to get in a good position,
especially with the lower pipe, gets somewhat tiring, not to mention
frustrating. You'll need to use a small flashlight to be able to see inside the
pipes (yet another frustrating thing).
-----
Regarding the C90:
Courtesy of Forum member "95vlx"
Tell your buddy not to waste his time. The C90 pipes and the LC pipes are very different. Debaffling the pipes on the C90, especially the bottom one is a nightmare with very undesirable results. Sounds like crap-tinny like a lawnmower, and doesn't help performance. I've been riding for over 30 years, lost count of how many bikes I've owned, debaffled every one of them, but the damn C90 pipes on my 2006 weren't worth the huge amount of time, tools, skint knuckles, etc.....so after a lot of work with disappointing results, I bought a set of V&H Longshots...VERY happy with those. I was warned by those who came before me on this forum that I would be disappointed in the results, and they were right!
These are the part numbers listed:
14181-45C00 for 1998 & 1999 LC
14181-10F00 for 2000 & up including the 2005 C90
Either part number will work. The 10F00 was the # change when they added the
tiny tabs on the copper face to allow the gaskets to hold themselves in the
exhaust bore while installing the pipes. The older ones have no tabs.
Also, remember to always replace the gaskets when replacing your pipes; never
re-use the old ones. And re-torque them often to the
manual
specs (2.3kg-m, 16.5 lb-ft).
You can buy the gaskets from your local dealer or check the Vendor listing on the Start page on the Forum, and\or look in the Vendor Section folder messages.
Check out this great tutorial on Crashman's site.
Do the "crumb cup mod".
Also check out this document which explains why newer HK's sound brasher than the older ones.