Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Forum F.A.Q.
Mamba Forum member since 12/01
Many Thanks To Mamba for creating this FAQ!
Now Maintained by Crow and Fritz
See the Garage section at Mocc's Place
Do I use the same fluid for the brakes that I use for the clutch?
Same fluid, such as Valvoline synthetic DOT4 (not 5, DOT5 has silicone in it which will destroy your seals).
See the Mod Shop section at Mocc's Place
The J.C.Whitney pads,
AGK015195B .. for all single disc LC's...front and rear...currently $14.99, are
considered one of the best buys for the buck.
In an effort to obtain somewhat longer service life for their pads, many people are changing over from the original metal sintered pads to kevlar composite pads. The most popular are the "EBC FA-103" pads (EBC is the manufacturer). These pads are available from your local motorcycle dealer, or can be ordered from a few catalog companies...here is one place to buy them., at an average cost of $24 per set (one wheel). Be aware that using harder pads may result in faster rotor wear. The same part number will fit both front and rear calipers.
A new item is ceramic brake pads, from Scandinavian Brake Systems...
Courtesy of Forum member "Miller569"
Contact Manuel...phone: 330-634-9800....www.manuelmotorcycles.com ;
I think they were around 24 per set. I have 98 LC. Scandinavian makes for all
models. I mentioned to my mechanic how the rear inside pad seems to wear much
faster than the outside. His suggestion was to keep an eye on the pads and
after x amount of miles switch the inner with the outer. Thought this was a
good idea and am passing it on.
Courtesy of Forum member "Canshad"
| REMOVAL & INSTALLATION OF BOTH WHEELS ON SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 LC |
| The following is the experience I gained in removing my wheels to have new tires fitted on Jan/Feb 2004, I must point out, that I will not be resposible for any accidents to any person/persons, or damage to equipment or property by using my suggestions. Note : The Intruder 1500 LC is a very heavy motorcycle, & all precautions must be taken to do this job safely, by using proper load tested restrainers, proper lifting equipment & the proper tools. |
| I used my motorcycle bike lift to take the total weight of the bike to a height approx. 22" from the tip of the fender to the floor, this height may need to be increased later depending on the size of the tires on the wheels to be installed. I then removed the windshield in order to provide access to the triple tree area for installation of the two front safety straps to my storage shed roof trusses, which have been reinforced to take the weight, just in case things go wrong. |
| I had a total of (7) adjustable load tested nylon straps securing the bike while lifting it to this height, (4) straps were used to hold bike from the roof truss of my storage shed, (2) were secured near the triple tree area to take the weight of the front end, just in case something terrible should occur, these straps will have to be tightened as bike is jacked up. |
| The other (2) straps secured on the frame tube section below the driver seat (Driver Seat has to be removed for this) these straps will also have to be tightened as the bike is being jacked up. |
| I used (2) more straps to secure the handlebars from swinging during the lifting, caution: as these are attached to to base of the bike lift, they have to be constantly slackened off until the working height is achieved, otherwise damage to the handlebars can occur. Another strap was put across the frame & secured also to the bike lift caution : this also requires slackening during lifting until desired working height is achieved, this strap will reduce the probability of the bike sliding left or right or tipping during work on the bike. |
| There are tools supplied in the tool kit for removing the rear & front wheel, but these tools are not much good for torque values expressed in the owners manual when doing final assembly of wheels. I therefore advise that you have a Torque Wrench 1/2" Drive & a 27 mm Socket Wrench, which will be needed especially on the rear wheel, also you should invest in a Metric Allen Socket Set, also 1/2" drive, I also found that a Metric Set of Allen 'T' Handles also came in very handy. |
| The OEM manual states that the rear fender & all kinds of other stuff should be removed before trying to remove the rear wheel, but I got some information from Wes on the forum, who guided me on an easier path where a lot of this work was not necessary if the bike was up high enough, my thanks to Wes for this excellent information. |
| In order to keep the proper balance on the bike lift, I would suggest that the front wheel be removed first, this is comparatively easier than the rear wheel which will be explained later. |
| Front wheel removal : Remove the end caps, remove the front axle "Pinch Bolt" front left fork ( item (2) in manual ) remove caliper bolts both (2) both sides (2003 model year) secure calipers, secure wheel from dropping while removing axle from left side. Remove front axle, caution : there are (2) spacers on this axle, left & right, make sure you mark them, as they are both different in shape & in length, & must be re-assembled in same order to provide proper cetrallity of the front wheel with the forks & the brake calipers.both spacers have large flanges which go towards the bearing, the right spacer has (2) flanges, the largest dia. goes towards the bearing. ( very important) |
| Now comes the tough part, I had the original stock pipes, so if you have different pipes, or your bike is a different year, (2003) your choices may be different from mine. Remove OEM right side saddlebag, slack off muffler coupling brackets # 8 & # 8a which connect muffler crossover tank to top muffler, this is where the power of the allen socket wrench set will come in handy, they're pretty tight with the heat,remove top exhaust pipe bracket bolt (item 19 in manual) the top exhaust pipe should now swing down clear of the rear axle. You may be forced to provide more room for the exit and/or re-installation of the rear wheel by removing the bolt which secures the underside mufflet tank on the lower left side of the frame, (item # 13 in manual) then the (2) bolts, ( items # 14 in manual) which will allow the rear muffler body ( lower exhaust pipe ) to be pulled over to the right to provide access for easier rear wheel entry or removal. |
|
Remove rear brake caliper by removing the caliper mounting bolt & nut (item 12 in manual) secure caliper. Remove axle end caps, & now, this is where the 27 mm 1/2" socket & breaker drive bar comes in handy,remove axle nut on right side, than work the axle out of the wheel from the left side of the bike with a wrench on the left side, make sure the weight of the wheel is supported, as this will make for easy removal, take care for the axle spacer which is located on the right side of the axle, make sure you mark it, as it has to go back in the same orientation. Now the axle is removed, pull the wheel gently towards the right side of the bike to disengage spline drive unit, now the wheel is off. |
| When re-assembling both wheels, may I suggest that the rear wheel be assembled first, this will keep the weight of the bike better balanced on the bike lift. If you have difficulty engaging rear wheel to drive spline, try pulling axle back from right side locationbut still have axle thru' wheel, then try again to engage the drive unit, when successful, then push axle all the way towards the right side, with spacer & brake caliper mounting bracket assembled on axle, then assemble nut & tighten. The torque values are important for safety & also prevent damage to components, the torque values are :- front axle nut : 47 lb-ft front axle pinch bolt : 16.5 lb-ft ( this should be tightened after front axle nut has been torqued ) rear wheel axle nut : 79 lb-ft rear brake caliper mounting bracket bolt/nut. : 36 lb-ft |
| GOOD LUCK |
For just the rear wheel, which is somewhat more complex due to the driveshaft
and fender, see the following document:
Courtesy
of Forum member "OneFromOz"
How to remove/replace the rear wheel
(PDF download)
NOTE: All tires listed on this page are sized correctly to match the VL1500 tire size. There are other options available. Each tire set has pro-con attributes based on personal preference (ie. Longevity, performance, etc.) This list is not all inclusive and no recommendations are applied to any set. Please do some research on the forum before making your choice because it is after all your choice alone.
Dunlop:
Front: D404 150/80-16
Rear: K555 170/80-15
Both either BW or WWW
Note: You cannot get matched tires/tread in our sizes from Dunlop in whitewalls.
They are close but not the same (K555 www Rear and D404 www Front).You can get
matched tires/tread in our sizes from Dunlop in blackwall (D404 Rear and D404
Front) but it has been suggested that D404 rear is poor durability. You can also
go with a D404 front and a K555 rear in blackwall as a set.
Pirelli:
MT66 150/80-16 71H TL Front
MT66 180/70-15 76H TL Rear
Night Dragon 150/80-16 Front
Night Dragon 170/80-15 Rear
Michelin:
Michelin Commander II 130/90/16 Front
Michelin Commander II Rear
180/70-15 (OEM Size) or 170/80/15 (Corrects Odometer)
Metzler:
ME880 150/80H16 front Discontinued. May still be available but
check the ages if you can
ME880 180/70HB15 rear
200/70/15 Rear (Oversized option)
Metzler White Walls Discontinued. May still be available but
check the ages if you can
150/80 - 16 71H TL WW ME 880 Marathon front
170/80 - 15 77H TL WW ME 888 Marathon rear
Kenda:
Kenda K673 Kruz 150/80-16 Front (Reviews are “good in a pinch”)
Kenda K673 Kruz 170/80-15 Rear (Reviews are “good in a pinch”)
Bridgestone:
Spitfire S11 Raised Black Letters 150H/80-16 Front (Tire fitment is correct but
no reviews)
Spitfire S11 Raised Black Letters 170/80H-15 Rear (Tire fitment is correct but
no reviews)
Exedra G703 H-Rated 150/80-16 Front (OEM
Replace)
Exedra G702 H-Rated 180/70-15 Rear (OEM Replace) These tires appear to be in
discontinuing status
Exedra MAX Bias Ply 150/80-16 Front
Exedra MAX Bias Ply 170/80-15 Rear
AVON:
Note: there have been less than good reviews on the Avon Venom when used on an
LC; read
this thread before buying!
Avon Cobra AV71 150/80R16 71V Front
(Tire fitment is correct but no reviews)
AV72 170/80B15 * 83H Rear (Tire fitment is correct but no reviews)
Avon Venom AM41 150/80H-16 Front (Mixed
reviews)
Avon Venom AM42 170/80H-15 Rear (Mixed reviews)
If you are still running the stock Bridgestone tires, the front tends to cup easily if the tire pressure is not kept around 40psi. Often just increasing the tire air pressure to around that mark will reduce the wobble significantly. But it's time to replace the tires if it's cupped badly. Even if you have replaced them with another brand, it's a good idea to keep the tire pressure around 40psi front and back.
Still have a front-end wobble and it's not the tires? Check the questions here
Courtesy of Forum member "James2003X"
Time to replace the wheel
bearings?????
Well no need to fear you have several choices then it comes to replacing them. First let me explain that most if not all of us know that the OEM bearings on the bikes leave a little to be desired so replacing them after 10 to 15K miles is not a bad idea.
When it comes time find bearings you need to know two things, that is the bearing size..
1. The front wheel has two bearings. The bearing number is 6203
2. The rear wheel has three bearings. The number on them is 6204
When you go looking for the bearings the numbers listed above are what you will need.
Some of the ending of the numbers will change a little according to what dust seal they have.
For example: If you order bearings from All Balls Racing they will have a RD at the end of the number.
The important thing is the 6203 and 6204.
You can order bearing from the AllBalls link above OR just take the numbers down to the local auto parts store and pick them up.. If they don’t have them they can get them. I am currently running SKF bearings in mine. For the last 6,000 miles with no problems.
Bearings you can use:
Or any other brand you prefer as long as the 6203 and 6204 numbers are the same.
When it comes time to change them and you want to do it yourself I would suggest buying a wheel bearing removal kit. Not too expensive and makes the job MUCH easier. You can order one from http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/whbereset.html
Courtesy of Forum member "Orc"
The
plugger is done from the outside and since it's a mushroom style it cannot come
out. I have no idea if one ever leaked but it will not pop out causing a sudden
release of air. It simply cannot come out.
Download ZIP'd document
here (RTF
format, ~ 4MB, lots of pictures)
You sure can! Often referred to as going to the "Dark Side", many Valk riders and a few LC'ers have been doing this for years. It's always controversial, and of course it's "non-standard" and "at your own risk" so don't expect any help from your local Zuke shop, but it can be done. Below are several links that should be of interest if you're considering joining the ranks of the "Dark Side". Also, if you are interested in joining the ranks of "the Dark Siders Club", you can buy a member's patch (if I have any left ;).
Shoptalk on the Valkyrie Forum
Treatise on the topic from Daniel Meyer, author of "Life is a Road"
Complete HowTo on changing tires at home
World's cheapest & easiest bead breaker
Order link for one possible choice of tire to buy
Looking for a Dark Side tire to fit with your Gtank installed?...see this Forum thread discussion
AND...if you're interested in whitewalls there aren't a lot of choices (see
below). Sounds expensive, but if you balance the cost out against the mileage
you should get from a DS tire vs a moto tire, well...might be worthwhile.
--------------------------
--------------------------
Below is info from an impromptu Forum survey (March 2006) of LC "Dark Siders"
Brand/models used and # of owners responding:
Falken Ziex 195/65-15
- 8
Uniroyal AM Silver 195/65R15 - 1
Goodyear Eagle GT-HR 195/65/15 - 3
Nankang N-812 165SR15
- 1
Goodyear TripleTred 195/65/15 - 2
Tire cost:
Best = Falken Ziex, Nankang N-812 or Uniroyal AM @ ~ $45
Avg = GY Eagle GT-HR @ ~ $85
Worst = GY TripleTred @ ~ $100
Bead seat pressure:
Best = GY Eagle GT-HR @ 55PSI (100 possible)
Avg = Falken Ziex # 80-110PSI
Worst = Uniroyal AM @ 135PSI (60-80 possible)
Shop vs Self for install:
12 vs 3